Kaş and environs

Lycian tomb

"Kaş" means eyebrow in Turkish but it's also the name of a little town on the Mediterranean, one of my favourite spots in Turkey. Once a picturesque fishing village, Kaş is now mostly populated by tourists, although there are still fishermen (I watched a man catch a sting ray when I was there). Nestled between the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean and some mountains, Kaş is also a photographer's dream. Look look up the hillside while you wander the cobblestone streets filled with vine covered houses/shops and you will see many rock cut tombs carved in to the mountainside and you will wonder how they got there.

In my opinion, Kaş is the ultimate destination. It's not a place of excitement so if you want nightclubs, creepy Turkish men hitting on you, loud and obnoxious British, Russian and German tourists and overpriced food, take yourself down to Alanya (a.k.a Hell on Earth), Antalya, Kuşadasi (where you can eat all the bacon you want), Bodrum or Marmaris. However, if you want relaxation, good fish, mezes (cold starters), friendly people and relaxation, Kaş is the place to go. Kaş offers great outdoor cafes where you can challenge the tavla (backgammon) champion of Kaş to play with/beat you, where you can chat with local people, and where you can simply enjoy life. There are also some really nice shops in Kaş and a great jewellery store located off the main square, at the beginning of the street leading up to the big Lycian tomb. Kaş is also an ideal base to explore the surrounding area and I recommend renting a car if you aren't scared of facing Turkish drivers and the fact that there are NO road rules in Turkey. Trust me: NONE.

Place for suntanning and swimming in Kas

Kaş does not have a beach but it has some nice (free) suntanning terraces which jut out in to the water and which you can swim off of. If you want a beach, Patara beach is about 20 minutes away (by car) and is absolutely pristine: huge, golden sand beach completely unspoiled by tourism development. Patara is a protected area and you can only suntan in certain places as it is also a sea turtle (Caretta Caretta) refuge and so it should remain that way. While driving to Patara beach, you will encounter the remains of the ancient city of Patara. The Lonely Planet and other guidebooks don't say much about these ruins but I can tell you that they are stunning: there is a lot to see, a lot more to be discovered and there are NO tourists (unlike Ephesus where you can't even see the ruins because of all the tourists!).

The ruins of Patara - ampitheater and surroundings

Another ancient city to visit (just a little past the Patara turnoff) is Xanthos. I didn't think it was as interesting as Patara, but my opinion about ancient ruins should not be trusted: after three years in Turkey and trips to Italy and Egypt, I am pretty much "ruined out".

On the way to Patara and Xanthos is another cute little seaside/fishing town called Kalkan. Kalkan is smaller than Kaş and, unlike Kaş, it has lots of seaside restaurants, one of which also served "Turkish Sunshine". Kaş' restaurants and cafes are mostly located in the main square, in the winding cobblestone streets and on rooftop terraces. Kalkan did, however, seem more expensive than Kaş. I really liked Kalkan and plan to go back to spend a night there at some point.

Come to the Turkish Mediterranean and this is guaranteed!

If it's adventure you seek, Kaş is one of the biggest scuba diving centers in Turkey, and it also offers paragliding adventures, and boat tours. The boat tours take visitors to Kekova where there are Lycian tombs which seem to float in the water and the "Sunken City" - the ruins of an ancient city from the 2nd century AD which was sunk by an earthquake. The boat tours also offer chances to swim in beautiful bays... but beware, boat tours in Turkey usually come equipped with a creepy Turkish man (always a boat staff member) who will spend the day hitting on you and making you generally uncomfortable. If you can deal with that,then the boat tours can be quite fun.

Another interesting place to visit (by car) is the ruins of Myra (located close to the uninteresting town of Demre) which has some very impressive rock cut Lycian tombs and a very well preserved ampithater. Demre is also the home of Saint Nicholas (Santa Claus) who was the bishop there - you can go visit his church if you are so inclined, I wasn't and therefore have nothing to tell you about said church.

Rock Cut Lycian Tombs - Myra

I love Kaş. I would love to own a holiday home there or perhaps a small pension. It's a great place to relax and explore the surrounding area.

I've been to Kaş three times and on each visit I stayed in the Kayahan hotel - it was recommended to me through word of mouth. It's an affordable, clean hotel, located about a five minute walk from the town center and a two minute walk from the suntanning platforms. The rooms all have airconditioning and balconies and you should ensure that you get a sea view. There is a great rooftop patio which gives fantastic views of the harbor and the Greek island of Meis (you can take day trips there if you want). The hotel price includes a big buffet breakfast on the rooftop patio. Deniz, the owner, is really great and if you let him know which bus you are coming on (if you are arriving by bus) he will meet you at the bus station. Hotel website: http://www.hotelkayahan.com/en/index.php